The Zero Debate

Fashion Week shifted to Milan on Feb. 17, so did the spotlight on the size of runway models. On Feb. 14, the 18-year-old model Eliana Ramos died of a heart attack, possibly related to malnutrition. The publicity of unhealthy models has increased with the recent deaths due to unhealthy lifestyles, such as anorexia. In November, Ana Carolina Reston, a Brazilian model with a diet of apples and tomatoes, died weighing 88 pounds. At this year's shows, fashion models can be found defending their natural figures during backstage interviews and are often shown eating in photos in publications such as The New York Times.

Some critics believe that the U.S. fashion industry and organizations such as the Council of Fashion Designers of America should set limits on the body mass index ratio, calculated by dividing weight by height, of models in fashion week shows. The fashion establishment of Madrid was the first to place a BMI minimum of 18 for catwalk models. Milan responded with a BMI minimum of 18.5, the low end of a "normal range" for an individual. While fashion industry leaders agree that some of the girls have problems, one fact is clear: models are expected to be thin. Clothes do, and always will, look better presented on thin frames.

But critics claim the size of models has declined over the past three decades, from a size 6, to a size 4 and the current size 0. In a similair fashion to the unconventional Heart Truth show in New York, Elena Miro, a designer for the "real woman" sized 6 to 22, kicked off Milan Fashion Week. While the show garnered positive publicity for Milan, the issue of thin models is still lingering in the air. The fashion industry, especially in the U.S., can not ignore the highly publicized issue. Public relations practitioners need to consult with fashion clients to integrate social responsibility with new industry standards.

On the Marc in London

London Fashion Week, often overlooked compared to its Paris and Milan counterparts, will be getting more attention this season because of one designer. Marc by Marc Jacobs, which has never been shown outside of New York, debuts in London on Feb. 16, the final day of fashion week. While Jacobs will be drooled over by reporters tonight, highlights from this week also include Giles, Christopher Kane and Gareth Pugh.

Marc Jacobs storefront on in Mayfair. Photo: Fashionunited

Jacobs is also opening his first London store this week on Mount Street, Mayfair. The 2,700 square foot store is only his second in Europe. Coordinating the store opening with his runway show was a great decision for the New York City-based designer.

It is no coincidence Style.com reported that London was "back on the fashion high it hasn't seem for a decade." Typically a less prominent fashion week, London is getting unprecidented attention thanks to some talents new British designers and the appearance by Jacobs.

Vegan Chic

Style.com's New Earth-Friendly Shopping Guide.

"...a market for young
shoppers who are fashion forward and eco-conscious."

Vegetables and cheeses are not the only ones sporting "100% Organic" labels. The market for vegan-friendly, and often luxurious, fashion is increasing along with the sales of organic foods. Natural markets such as Whole Foods have continued to expand to serve the needs of health-conscious consumers, including the 4.8 million vegetarians in the United States. Supermarkets known more for low prices than healthy foods such as Wal-Mart and Publix have expanded their organic offerings in stores across the nation this year.

Food, houseware and clothing are all under the same roof at Organic Avenue, a shop in the Lower East Side and a market for young shoppers who are fashion forward and eco-conscious. Dresses, scarves and bags are made from organic cotton jersey, hemp and ahimsa peace silk, which does not harm silk worms during production. In New York City and beyond, the manufacturer and retailer American Apparel carries a Sustainable Edition line of organic basics for men, women and children in stores. On the luxury side, animal activist and designer Stella McCartney launched a vegan-friendly handbag line this year and plans to have an organic skin care line in stores by spring.

Designer Marc Bouwer teamed up with PETA, the world's largest animal rights organization, to produce a cruelty free fashion show on the first day of New York Fashion Week. Bouwer's pieces were created with faux fur and were based on "imitation." Paris Hilton, Angelia Jolie and Heidi Klum are fans of his animal-friendly designs.

The cruelty free movement may be getting its chic image from Hollywood. Movie stars arrive at red carpet events in fuel-efficient hybrid cars, and vegans such as Natalie Portman, Joaquin Phoenix and record producer Rick Rubin have garnered recent media attention. While the "go green" mentality may be a trend lead by celebrities, most critics agree that public awareness is a good thing.

Bouwer's faux striped chinchilla coat for Fall 2007. Photo: nymag.com

The Other Side of Town

Window display at Opening Ceremony. Photo: Scott Schuman

While some fashionistas were under the tents in Bryant Park on Friday, the first day of fashion week in New York City, others were pushing their way through the downtown Manhattan store Opening Ceremony to purchase printed sundresses and skinny jeans from Proenza Schouler's new line for Target.

The low-cost collection, sold at Opening Ceremony for four days, will be available in 1,494 Target stores across the nation and online at Target.com on Sunday. Proenza Schouler is the the fifth designer to provide affordable fashion through GO International and has received prominent features in February issues of magazines such as Elle and Teen Vogue. Previous designers were Luella Bartley, Tara Jarmon, Paul & Joe and Behnaz Sarafpour.

With the "Design for All" mission, Target has effectively positioned themselves as the leading fashionable retailer over competitors Kmart and Wal-Mart, providing clothing by Issac Mizrahi and housewares by Michael Graves. The chain retailer H&M has also been a forerunner for providing "fashion for the masses" through guest designer lines by Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and most recently, Viktor & Rolf.

Critics of high-low fashion believe these lines compromise ready-to-wear brand prestige, while advocates claim the low-cost lines increase positive perceptions of the companies. It may be too early to tell, but this model may be the future of fashion. When luxury brands adopt fast-fashion techniques, collaborations are often a win-win for both consumers and designers.

Proenza Schouler clothing is available through luxury retailers such as Neiman Marcus where a silk bustier dress costs $1,350. A purple bustier dress characteristic of Proenza will cost $39.99 at Target. Most items from the Target collection will cost less than $50 and will be available for 90 days.

For a relatively new company like Proenza Schouler, (They have only been in business since 2002.) the collaboration with Target secures income and reaches a new and influential market of consumers. To remain competitve in the changing world of fashion, fashion-forward retailers and high-profile designers may have to do the same.

Looks from the Proenza Schouler for Target line.

Heart Truth

Kim Cattrall in Carolina Herrera; Betsey Johnson in her own design.
Photos: imaxtree.com

Heart disease was on the agenda for designers and celebrity models at the first show during New York Fashion Week. In its fifth year, the Heart Truth campaign displayed the Red Dress Collection at Bryant Park on Friday. The campaign is sponsored by the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute (NHLBI) and is aimed at increasing awareness about women and the risk of heart disease.

Zac Posen, Donna Karan and Jovovich-Hawk were among the more than 20 designers who contributed to the collection. The one-of-a-kind red dresses were modeled by celebrities such as Kelly Ripa, Rachael Ray and Angela Bassett. Heart Truth campaign ambassador and first lady Laura Bush attended the event.

In 2002, Heart Truth introduced the red dress as the national symbol of heart disease awareness and showed during fashion week the following year. The creative campaign, which unveiled the collection on National Wear Red Day, has already received media attention from the fashion world. And in light of recent debate regarding overly thin models, the cause-based line provided a refreshing starting point for the week.

Fashion Week: The Runway Factor

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which features the fall collections of more than 200 designers, begins Friday at Bryant Park in Manhattan. The event, organized by IMG Fashion, is one of the largest in the $780 billion global fashion industry. Editors, photographers, buyers and celebrities will be under the tents for eight days to scrutinize trend-defining runway looks.

While industry insiders have already made their predictions, (high-waisted skirts, pumps and opaque tights) designers know a runway hit can lead to a profitable season, an Oscar-worthy gown or more importantly, praise from Anna Wintour. Designers must show an entire collection, usually 25 to 45 looks, in approximately 15 minutes and make a lasting impression on the influential audience.

The fashion public relations and production firm People's Revolution will be producing 15 shows this season, the most of any company in New York. Location, models, stylists and lighting designers contribute to the exorbitant costs associated with putting together a large-scale fashion show. Rock and Rupublic, a designer jeans company and Think PR client, will be spending $2.5 million this season on production.

Fashion week veterans Diane von Furstenberg and Oscar de la Renta can afford to show at the coveted tent complex, but many emerging designers show at rented spaces throughout New York City. Up-and-coming companies often benefit from corporate sponsorships, such Lexus-sponsored designers Linda Loudermilk, Thakoon and Rodarte. Despite high costs, memorable shows lead to a large amount of press, possible store openings and increased sales when products hit stores this summer.