Sunday, March 25, 2007

What do Kate Moss and Madonna Have in Common?

On May 8, Barney's New York will be the only store in the United States to offer a limited edition line for Top Shop designed by style icon and model Kate Moss. Moss is slated to make a public appearance in New York on the same day, according to Fashion Week Daily. The collection will be displayed at Barney's CO-OP, the trendy offshoot of the luxury department store in NYC.


Model and Top Shop designer Kate Moss.

Moss, model Milla Jovovich and singer Madonna are part of the trend of non-designers taking on low-priced fashion for retail outlets. M by Madonna, a line that debuted in H&M stores three days ago, is said to "capture her unique style." At a recent event, Madonna wore a $35 dress from her collection. But she did not carry the $34.50 metallic bag from her H&M line - she held a Dior clutch, according to the Independent.

Much like Opening Ceremony's role in bringing Proenza Schouler's line for Target to the heart of NYC, Barney's will provide city fashionistas with the Moss line they would have to visit the UK to buy. But the difference lies in the designers. Low-priced lines have given designers a way to increase awareness of their brands beyond the luxury fashion world. Karl Lagerfeld has done it. Stella McCartney has done it. And now Kate Moss is doing it. While this is great publicity for celebrities that may be falling off the media's radar, the allure of limited edition "designer" lines may fade if these lines become saturated across urban America.

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Monday, March 19, 2007

Jacobs in Rehab

Fashion designer Marc Jacobs entered a rehabilitation center on March 12, just shy of fashion week. Jacobs' three fall shows, Marc by Marc Jacobs in London, Marc Jacobs in New York and Louis Vuitton in Paris, were well-received by the fashion industry. Critics welcomed his narrow silhouettes and claimed that the stray from heavy layers reflected his own change in physique. As I wrote during London Fashion Week, he received a lot of press for showing his younger line and opening a boutique for the first time in London. Clearly a lot of attention has been placed on Jacobs for the past month.

On the same day as his rehab announcement, the Council of Fashion Designers of America nominated him for two upcoming awards, in the womenswear and accessories categories. The deliberate choice to release the rehab news at the same time was a smart PR move by Marc Jacob's in-house department and KCD Worldwide. The media loves the rehab story, and this forced them to shift the focus back to his accomplishments in fashion.



Jacobs after his Fall 2007 show in New York. Photo: Style.com

Jacobs is open to the media about his past problems with drug and alcohol abuse, but has been sober for seven years, according to his business partner Robert Duffy. It will be interesting to see how his PR department handles the issue as he progresses.

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Sunday, February 25, 2007

The Zero Debate

Fashion Week shifted to Milan on Feb. 17, so did the spotlight on the size of runway models. On Feb. 14, the 18-year-old model Eliana Ramos died of a heart attack, possibly related to malnutrition. The publicity of unhealthy models has increased with the recent deaths due to unhealthy lifestyles, such as anorexia. In November, Ana Carolina Reston, a Brazilian model with a diet of apples and tomatoes, died weighing 88 pounds. At this year's shows, fashion models can be found defending their natural figures during backstage interviews and are often shown eating in photos in publications such as The New York Times.

Some critics believe that the U.S. fashion industry and organizations such as the Council of Fashion Designers of America should set limits on the body mass index ratio, calculated by dividing weight by height, of models in fashion week shows. The fashion establishment of Madrid was the first to place a BMI minimum of 18 for catwalk models. Milan responded with a BMI minimum of 18.5, the low end of a "normal range" for an individual. While fashion industry leaders agree that some of the girls have problems, one fact is clear: models are expected to be thin. Clothes do, and always will, look better presented on thin frames.

But critics claim the size of models has declined over the past three decades, from a size 6, to a size 4 and the current size 0. In a similair fashion to the unconventional Heart Truth show in New York, Elena Miro, a designer for the "real woman" sized 6 to 22, kicked off Milan Fashion Week. While the show garnered positive publicity for Milan, the issue of thin models is still lingering in the air. The fashion industry, especially in the U.S., can not ignore the highly publicized issue. Public relations practitioners need to consult with fashion clients to integrate social responsibility with new industry standards.

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Friday, February 16, 2007

On the Marc in London

London Fashion Week, often overlooked compared to its Paris and Milan counterparts, will be getting more attention this season because of one designer. Marc by Marc Jacobs, which has never been shown outside of New York, debuts in London on Feb. 16, the final day of fashion week. While Jacobs will be drooled over by reporters tonight, highlights from this week also include Giles, Christopher Kane and Gareth Pugh.


Marc Jacobs storefront on in Mayfair. Photo: Fashionunited

Jacobs is also opening his first London store this week on Mount Street, Mayfair. The 2,700 square foot store is only his second in Europe. Coordinating the store opening with his runway show was a great decision for the New York City-based designer.

It is no coincidence Style.com reported that London was "back on the fashion high it hasn't seem for a decade." Typically a less prominent fashion week, London is getting unprecidented attention thanks to some talents new British designers and the appearance by Jacobs.


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Sunday, February 11, 2007

Vegan Chic



"...a market for young
shoppers who are fashion forward and eco-conscious."
Vegetables and cheeses are not the only ones sporting "100% Organic" labels. The market for vegan-friendly, and often luxurious, fashion is increasing along with the sales of organic foods. Natural markets such as Whole Foods have continued to expand to serve the needs of health-conscious consumers, including the 4.8 million vegetarians in the United States. Supermarkets known more for low prices than healthy foods such as Wal-Mart and Publix have expanded their organic offerings in stores across the nation this year.

Food, houseware and clothing are all under the same roof at Organic Avenue, a shop in the Lower East Side and a market for young shoppers who are fashion forward and eco-conscious. Dresses, scarves and bags are made from organic cotton jersey, hemp and ahimsa peace silk, which does not harm silk worms during production. In New York City and beyond, the manufacturer and retailer American Apparel carries a Sustainable Edition line of organic basics for men, women and children in stores. On the luxury side, animal activist and designer Stella McCartney launched a vegan-friendly handbag line this year and plans to have an organic skin care line in stores by spring.

Designer Marc Bouwer teamed up with
PETA, the world's largest animal rights organization, to produce a cruelty free fashion show on the first day of New York Fashion Week. Bouwer's pieces were created with faux fur and were based on "imitation." Paris Hilton, Angelia Jolie and Heidi Klum are fans of his animal-friendly designs.

The cruelty free movement may be getting its chic image from Hollywood. Movie stars arrive at red carpet events in fuel-efficient hybrid cars, and vegans such as Natalie Portman, Joaquin Phoenix and record producer Rick Rubin have garnered recent media attention. While the "go green" mentality may be a trend lead by celebrities, most critics agree that public awareness is a good thing.

Bouwer's faux striped chinchilla coat for Fall 2007. Photo: nymag.com

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